Casting thickness varies but should be around 1.07"
 


Step 1
A.  Chuck casting in lathe and to try to minimize 'wobble' to obtain maintain good casting position.  MAKE SURE CASTING IS SECURE!!!!  wear appropriate safety gear before starting machine.
B.  You will be 'facing' the back side first by removing .125" of the casting.  This is your starting point.
The newly machined backside is the 'Zero' point of which all other dimensions will be measured from.
C.  Drill/bore/ream axle hole.
D.  Turn outside flange dimension.

Step 2
A. Face front of casting.  Machined thickness should be maintained at  1.062"

Step 3
A.  Place wheel in desired fixture in mill, clamp in place, indicate center axle bore to zero location.  Move table to find  crankpin position (1.75" from axle center).  Drill/bore/ream workpiece for crankpin hole.  Repeat procedure for wheel driver set.

Step 4
A. Make fixture to obtain Quartering of wheel.  Fixture usually is fitted with collet for the broach and a pin that fits crankpin hole position.  Set wheel casting with fixture in press and align.   Broach wheel set to make the  keyway.


Step 4
A.  Make an axle stub with press fit.  If desired the axle could be milled for keyway.  A key installed thru the axle and wheel keyway would prevent wheel from possibly spinning loose on axle during turning process.


Step 5
A.  Finish wheel tire thickness.
B.  Finish flange and fillet radius to meet current IBLS standards.
C.  Break sharp edges.

Page information is for advice only.  Other machinists may have better tools and ideas to obtain same results.  This method has been successfull for me.
 

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