Step 1
A. Chuck casting in lathe and to try to minimize 'wobble' to
obtain maintain good casting position. MAKE SURE CASTING IS
SECURE!!!!
wear appropriate safety gear before starting machine.
B. You will be 'facing' the back side first by removing .125"
of the casting. This is your starting point.
The newly machined backside is the 'Zero' point of which all other
dimensions will be measured from.
C. Drill/bore/ream axle hole.
D. Turn outside flange dimension.
Step 2
A. Face front of casting. Machined thickness should be maintained
at 1.062"
Step 3
A. Place wheel in desired fixture in mill, clamp in place,
indicate
center axle bore to zero location. Move table to find
crankpin
position (1.75" from axle center). Drill/bore/ream workpiece for
crankpin hole. Repeat procedure for wheel driver set.
Step 4
A. Make fixture to obtain Quartering of wheel. Fixture usually
is fitted with collet for the broach and a pin that fits crankpin hole
position. Set wheel casting with fixture in press and
align.
Broach wheel set to make the keyway.
Step 4
A. Make an axle stub with press fit. If desired the axle
could be milled for keyway. A key installed thru the axle and
wheel
keyway would prevent wheel from possibly spinning loose on axle during
turning process.
Step 5
A. Finish wheel tire thickness.
B. Finish flange and fillet radius to meet current IBLS
standards.
C. Break sharp edges.
Page information is for advice only. Other machinists may have
better tools and ideas to obtain same results. This method has
been
successfull for me.